Restaurant Week Carroll County

Various Locations

Names Not Provided to Protect the Innocent and Keep Me From Being Sued

 

If there is any wonder why I do so few reviews of restaurants inside my home county of Carroll, Restaurant Week there provided the answers. There is damn little here to keep one here if it is fine food and a restaurant-like atmosphere one is in search of. In my dining experiences at three restaurants during the week of August 22^nd through the 26^th 2011 I found the all shared three of the same qualities, if that’s what you want to call them:

• They apparently believe that quantity is what it is all about. One had five huge courses – nothing extraordinary mind you, just 5 big courses of food.  Another, for $15, let you select an appetizer and two – yes two- full size entrees. Why the hell would anyone need two entrees? All the food was mediocre. Am I supposed to vote on these restaurants based on the number of plates of food I carry home as left-overs?

• The water sucks in every restaurant in Westminster. If they gave you a whole lemon to put in it the water it would still taste awful. They should either give you a bottle of Deer Park water or a demi bottle of white wine to atone for the lousy municipal tap water they are stuck with. What, they never heard of a Brita or a decent water treatment system of their own?

• They all play music for people who are not listening to it. It isn’t ambient white noise, it is noisy noise – annoying noise that makes everyone speak louder and the restaurant be louder than it need be. Yes, I have been to noisy fine restaurants but that’s because the people there were having a good time and the plates were clanging – not because Abba was playing the same old same old over speakers positions everywhere or the TV’s had some sports nonsense on while the dining room was pretending to be a restaurant in a sports bar.

None of the formula / chain restaurants participated in restaurant week, for example Olive Garden and Chili’s. From what I can tell, they did not need to as business there is quite good and for what it is, so is the food for the price. I try to avoid these type restaurants but you’ll catch me in one occasionally, particularly for their lunch specials.

I do hope Restaurant Week grows in Carroll County next year with more restaurants participating, particularly some of the Chinese restaurants who may have the originality to put something special together on their menus. Let’s hope that other restaurants realize that the occasion is more about the challenge of fine food than the quantity of it.

Happenstance Lunch Happens to be Perfect

Timpano Chophouse

12021 Rockville Pike

Rockville, MD 20852

301-881-6939

www.TimpanoChophouse.net

We had been to Timpano twice before for dinner while going to the incredible Strathmore Concert Hall in Montgomery County. Both dinners were quite successful with the skillet roasted mussels appetizer really remaining in my memory as a hit. This large, dual level dining room right off Rockville Pike is very popular and from the looks of it one night we were there the drinks at the bar must be either very cheap or awfully good as people were three deep.

We were in the neighborhood this Saturday to check out the extraordinary tile and fixtures at Porcelanosa USA’s store / gallery a few miles away for a planned bathroom remodeling. Being close to lunch when we finished up at Porcelanosa we thought we’d revisit Timpano but when we arrived there was hardly a car on the parking lot. However the lights were on inside so the four of us piled into an almost empty restaurant. My first thought was oh oh, somebody died eating a bad clam the prior week and the resultant bad press had killed them. The waiter assured us it wasn’t so – just that it was a typical weekend lunchtime when people vacate town for the beach. The huge, open grill kitchen was abuzz preparing dishes and baked goods for the evening menu so we must have walked into a strange time warp indeed.

Warm rolls and an olive oil dipping sauce come out quickly. The rolls could really do without being pre-buttered, particularly since the olive oil dip is so good - it has a green olive tapenade, garlic and red peppers in it from what I could tell.

The lunch menu is quite extensive. Those mussels were on there calling me but I was determined to resist ordering them again in the name of trying something different and brother am I glad I did. Two among us ordered the flatbread style pizzas, one with Italian sausage, caramelized onions  and a tomato – garlic sauce; the other a  Four cheese special with pesto – both were big hits and required boxing up for the leftovers.

One of us settled on the Shrimp Diablo, a selection that got a real nod of approval from our attentive waiter. The shrimp were mixed in a large portion of fettuccini with asparagus, pine nuts and spinach with a rosa sauce. I was envious…until my order of lemon caper pasta arrived. It was just what I hoped for and more with angel hair pasta tossed with lemon zest, parsley, olive oil and many, many capers. Some might say too many capers but I love them and no one forced me to eat all of them. Since I wasn’t driving I broke my standby rule and had a glass of their house Pinot Grigio which was extremely fruity and served very, very cold as I believe it should be.

There is a nice selection of salads, chicken, fish and sandwiches on this lunch menu with prices running from $9.00 to $15.00 per entrée. That large order of mussels with olive oil and kosher salt is $12. Mind you this is the Washington DC market so prices are going to be a bit high compared to Carroll County. Check out their dinner menu on the very thorough web site and reservations are a must for dinner. Throw in a show at the Strathmore to make a full evening of it - that beautiful concert hall is acoustically and aesthetically perfect.

Little Italy Calls

Rocco’s Capriccio

846 Fawn Street

Baltimore, Md 21202

410-685-2710

 Itsa the real deal!

This dinner visit with friends was inspired by Baltimore Restaurant Week with its $35 per person menus. The story at Rocco’s is all about the sauces. While the menus at all participating restaurants provide limited selections from their full menus, the one offered by Rocco’s capriccio included a very large selection of appetizers, entrees and desserts. All four diners this evening were easily able to choose selections without duplicating one another.

It had been many years since our last meal in Baltimore’s Little Italy as we have been travelling to the superb Mama Filomena’s in Georgetown for our Italian food fixes. My family used to go to Maria’s 500 in Little Italy several times a year for the simplest of inexpensive cuisine and house red wine. This trip to Fawn Street recalled many of my memories of those good times as I stepped out of our car and engaged an entire neighborhood overwhelmed with the aroma of cooked garlic on a warm evening.

Parking in Little Italy has become competitive and expensive. The residents there are certainly entitled to most of the street parking but it makes for a nice business for those with nearby lots of valet services. One entrepreneurial fellow has staked out the restaurants on the four corners of Fawn St. and rather than cruise the neighborhood for 20 minutes looking for a free spot I paid the $10 tariff and moved onto our meal. Parking is even more difficult and expensive in Georgetown.

The dining room is not large at Rocco’s and it certainly has a homey mediterranean feel to it. Reservations are suggested for any evening meal regardless of which night you choose. The bread that comes out shortly after you are seated is the flavorful white loaf that has accompanied many a meal in many a restaurant in Little Italy. It did not need the butter that accompanied it but it would have been nice if some olive oil and herbs had been available for dipping it in.

Two of the appetizers we ordered were remarkable, the Prosciutto over melon and Insalata Del Mare. The Prosciutto was thinly sliced sheets of perfectly lean meat in over sweet green melon slices. The portion was huge. My mix of shrimp, mussels and clams were in a totally perfect red sauce that must have been cooking for days with EVVO and garlic. Everyone at the table took occasion to put that bread to use.

All of the dinner entrees were impressive. The Fettuccini and Shrimp in a white cream sauce was spectacular. The Stuffed Veal was a nice size portion in a wonderful brown / mushroom sauce with a stuffing of prosciutto & asiago and gorgonzola cheeses. My Rack of Lamb was cooked to medium just as I asked and the final dish of Costa Rican Snapper with leeks and carrots left only a very empty plate in front of my friend. The side dishes of penne pasta with marinara sauce that some ordered were fine but a bit disappointing.

Desserts of fresh cannoli and tiramisu finished our leisurely meal. I liked the tiramisu quite a bit because it was so moist from the rum saturation, another among us found it to be too mushy; less than the expected firmness. Oh well.

Looking over the regular dinner menu I found many reasons to return to Rocco’s with entrée prices ranging from $20 for the veal dishes to $32 for Rack of Veal. Chef Rocco Gargano twice visited tables in the dining room during our visit. It’s a family business there with his daughter serving tables and his son as bartender. I’ll return to this restaurant if only for some more of his incredible tomato sauce, perhaps with the calamari over linguini. Only next time I’m going to arrive early and walk the neighborhood, taking in as much of the aromas as I can. 



Oh My, Monsieur

Marie Louise Bistro

904 N. Charles Street

Baltimore, MD 21201

410-385-9946

www.marielouisebistrocatering.com

Magnificent food and terrific service!

I am a Baltimore native. I must also live in a cave because until visiting this wonderful restaurant during Restaurant Week Baltimore I had not been there before and hardly heard of it. Shame on me.

On a weeknight, it took only 35 minutes from Finksburg to arrive at the parking lot adjoining this Mount Vernon restaurant. The whole way home I blamed myself for not having eaten at this very fine restaurant years ago. Places like the Prime Rib and McCormick Schmucks get all the fanfare in Baltimore, some of it deserved, but here this French bistro with its incredible dessert pastry display at the entrance has evaded me and others I have spoken to about it since our meal there. The prices are downright reasonable compared to those big-name restaurants too.

Restaurant Week offers fixed price, limited menu fare at many good restaurants in the Monumental City. Its success has been copied in Howard County and now I see restaurants in Carroll County is jumping on the bandwagon during the week of August 21^st.  Washington ,DC has one as I'm sure many other areas outside my cave must too. Multiple course dinners are all $35.11 at every restaurant on the list, including even some of the most expensive eateries like Fogo de Chow. Lunches are also available at reduced prices so check out that web site http://www.baltimorerestaurantweek.com/

I admit that a review of Marie Louise Bistro in the Baltimore Sun  many moons ago piqued my interest, although there are so many restaurants on my list of eateries to explore that I could have chosen another during Restaurant Week and missed this gem. We hit it rich in Mount Vernon with this one.

It is not an ostentatious place and many of the diners the weeknight we stopped in were dressed very casually. Dumb me with my wear a jacket to a nice dinner philosophy! After absorbing the atmosphere and menu I can see why people were dressed down – this place has a huge neighborhood following. Many people came by just for a jumbo martini and one of the incredible pastries available until 10 PM. (11 on Friday & Saturday). The sidewalks outside the Bistro were buzzing with people as the neighborhood is just loaded with bars and restaurants of all sorts. Double recession be damned, drink up!

Our excellent server, Kirsten, was attentive throughout the meal and more helpful than most in her business when dumb questions about the food and the restaurant itself.

I momentarily excused myself from the pre fixe menu when I saw an appetizer for two that I could not resist – the Charcuterie Plate. Not wanting to dwell on how pate’ is made, I am a lush for it.  Unfortunately, my wife is not as crazy about pureed and cured meats so I was obligated to eat most of this large portion myself. I hope other diners are able to share more of the Plate than me but hey, I’m not complaining. Along with the basket of fresh baguette bread, the plate consists of slices of a rough, pepper-coated salami, a delightful house pate, larger still slices of a house fois gras torchon and cured / dried slices of prosciutto all accompanied by cured olives, some cornichons and a homemade, coarse Dijon mustard. In all fairness, this plate alone could make an entrée for most people and then you’d not have to share it with anyone. I thought the meal would surely go downhill from that point because the meats were just extraordinary. The picture above is an internet capture - the actual Charcuterie at the Bistro is much nicer.

Back onto the Restaurant Week special menu my wife had the cold Butternut Squash soup. There are very few cold soups that I like, save those made with berries. She loved the large, and I do mean large, bowl of the soup. I forced myself to try the Mushroom and Leek tart without regret.

Once again, we both chose the same dinner entree. I was not about to forgo the Trio of Lamb Chops just because my spouse insisted on having it. Three nice, small lamb chops accompanied as many incredible Merguez lamb sausages and two B’Steeya, a lamb compote in a fluffy pastry, all over delightful baked potato wedges with lamb jus and accompanied with pickled red onion (hey, it works!). We asked to have the tzasiki sauce on the side and were glad we did. This thick white sauce had a sharp dill flavor and I thought it unnecessary and overpowering. Had it not been served aside I think it could have ruined a marvelous entrée for both of us.

We only had dessert because it came with the package meal. Yeah, right. Wifey had the chocolate hazelnut dome and took no prisoners home. I had an incredibly light crepe with a heavenly crème filling and peaches in a glaze sauce. I would not normally order a dessert (honest), particularly after a large meal like this BUT before leaving we asked Kirsten to box up two pastries to go for the next evening’s delight. The next evening I enjoyed a coconut tart with a moist cake interior and fresh fruit topping. The Chocolate Purse that my wife took home was a visual wonder and delicious (she says, as she refused to share). This incredible dessert is made of a hard but thin chocolate exterior that you would swear is a small leather purse, complete with marks from the strings being pulled to close it at the top. It was filled with chocolate mousse. Now that is decadence at its visual best and a huge compliment to the pastry chef.

Wines are available by the bottle or glass. Bottles range from $29 to almost $100. If you are into the martini thing they have an impressive list as well as other liqueurs and ports. I have to make a comment here that no matter where we dine, the after dinner drink list never (so far at least) includes Absinthe and that is just a shame. This anise - like gift of the Green Fairies has been legal in the US since 2007 after getting a bad rap a century ago by tea toddlers who believed the wormwood in it brought out the demons in those who drank it. More nonsense from those so hypocritically pure of spirit themselves in that era accompanying Prohibition. I say put Absinthe on the menus and be dammed ye of demon spirit. Let the Green Fairies it is supposed to induce on imbibers dance into the night. Few would want to drink it straight and even diluted with the typical sugar cube and ice cold water it may be an acquired taste but I have seen the younger generation drink far more bitter chartreuse-colored spirits.

So, I will certainly be going back to Marie Louise Bistro, if only to have the Bouillabaisse. There are so many delicious items on their menu; check out the web site. And thanks to our server Kristin for making a very good meal a great one.

Go for the Gumbo!

Ethel and Ramone’s

1615 Sulgrave Avenue

Baltimore (Mount Washington), MD

410-664-2971

www.ethelandramones.com

Even with the oppressive hot weather we’ve had in Maryland recently, it hadn’t quenched my recent desire for some authentic Cajun food. Although there may be some jambalayas available in Carroll County, the place in the Baltimore region for the best in Louisiana’s spice fare is Ethel and Ramone’s in nearby Mount Washington.

It takes almost ½ an hour to reach Taneytown from our home in Finksburg so the mid-day ½ hour drive in the opposite direction for a specialty lunch seemed fair enough. Had I know how good our lunch would be I would have driven twice the distance and will certainly be returning one evening for dinner there.

I thought for sure we were off to a bad start when General manager Jeff  Berkow suggested we dine on the porch overlooking shady Sulgrave Avenue because the dining room was actually warmer. Fortunately, this afternoon was much less warm than those preceding it and it was very comfortable sitting in the shade on a day when the owners could be excused for a broken air conditioning unit. The HVAC repairman was actually sizing up situation while we were there and explaining that he would have been there sooner were it not for the toll that several consecutive 100 degree days had taken on Baltimore’s AC  and food refrigeration units.

Enough said about a minor faux pas. Jeff also quickly changed the music in the restaurant from the chef’s preferred acid rock to much more agreeable piano jazz (Ray Brown Trio I believe) for customers now arriving for lunch. There’s a nice selection of wines available by the bottle or glass but I stuck to my rule about afternoon imbibing and opted for some freshly made lemonade instead. The menu’s here are on plain paper and while I could have selected any one of several entrees, I spied the mention of a roux which was simmered for days before it was ready for use in the gumbo. Forgedabout everything else, it was a matter of just choosing from the “plain” Andouille sausage, chicken, crab, seafood or shrimp gumbos at that point. My wife decided to have the chicken version of their Po’ Boy sandwich.  I am quite glad I settled on the shrimp gumbo because it was full of extremely large cooked shrimp with Andouille in a beautiful, thick, dark brown sauce akin to what one would expect in a serious stew. A heap of spicy rice accompanied the gumbo, leaving it up to the diner to decide on the right context of each for their meal – I found this much preferable to a more typical serving of the gumbo over the rice. One needs to take ample time to savor this very spicy dish, that brown sauce is extraordinary, the sausage and shrimp just delicious.

That Po’ Boy sandwich was very nice but not $5 nicer than one you get at Chick-fil-A. Served on ciabatta bread with roasted greens, tomato and a skim of fried potatoes, it’s no ordinary sandwich yet I wasn’t all that impressed considering all the advance fanfare given it in a Baltimore newspaper. Typically this sandwich is served with a remoulade dressing but with my spouse’s allergy to mayonnaise, the dressing was served on the side so I could evaluate it on the corner of her sandwich that I claimed. The remoulade does not make the sandwich but it is a nice accompaniment for some extra spice if so desired but then I wouldn’t miss the secret sauce on a Big Mac either.

Altogether, the gumbo alone makes this restaurant worth the trip. I plan on returning for a dinner to try either the Jambalaya or the pan fried Maryland Fried Chicken and their red beans and rice. Jeff did forewarn me to make a reservation for any Friday night or weekend dinner plans. They do serve that gumbo in the evenings too and an encore is not out of question.